New skin firming cream ingredients join the fight against ageing
Two new anti-ageing active ingredients have recently been discovered which will soon be used as ingredients in anti-ageing creams in the near future, the lipoaminoacids palmitoyl glycine and cocoyl alanine.
As the name suggests lipo-aminoacids are aminoacids which also possess a fatty acid component in their molecule. This enhances their absorption and utilisation by the cell in comparison to plain aminoacids. Different combinations of aminoacids make up peptides and all proteins in our bodies, including collagen and elastin, the main types of proteins found on human skin.
Lipopeptides such as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4(KTTKS), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7-(GCPR) and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (GHK) have been successfully used in anti-ageing creams for several years, revolutionising the fight against wrinkles and ageing. Now this new research paper by a group of French scientists adds to our body of knowledge about the efficacy of lipo aminoacids.
The multi-functional skin aminoacids
This study was conducted on human fibroblasts, the cells in the human skin and other body tissues that produce collagen and elastin, the very proteins that provide the skin with it’s tightness and elasticity, respectively. Researchers have found that palmitoyl glycine and cocoyl alanine do not just act on tissue architecture (i.e. making skin tighter and more elastic) but also on inflammation, cell longevity and skin immune system protection. In simple terms these two new anti-ageing ingredients have multiple beneficial effects on skin health, skin ageing and skin appearance.
This cell and tissue-based study was followed by a human clinical trial on Caucasian women which confirmed the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cocoyl alanine and palmitoyl glycine, and found it to be superior to that of a market reference ingredient.
The new ingredients should be incorporated in anti-ageing creams in the near future and could be also used in the fight against cellulite.
- Paper: Two new lipoaminoacids with complementary modes of action: new prospects to fight out against skin aging.
- Abstract: The mode of action of two cosmetic active ingredients (AIs), palmitoyl glycine (PG) and cocoyl alanine (CA) was studied with cDNA array experiments and quantitative PCR confirmations, which were performed on experimentally aged human fibroblasts. These preliminary studies revealed complementary profiles. Thus, specific supplementary investigations were then carried out for each AI. Protocols used were based either on in vitro models: (i) biochemical assays, (ii) monolayer cell culture (primary human fibroblasts and keratinocytes) and (iii) the model of capillary-like tube formation by human endothelial cells or on ex vivo models, i.e. topically treated skin explants and both immunohistochemical and Chromameter(TM) investigations. New prospects are proposed to fight out against skin aging. Indeed, PG and CA showed complementary properties and thus enabled a regulation or a restoration effect on main aging-associated disorders. Thus, they can not only act on tissue architecture, cell-cell interactions and extracellular matrix protection but also on inflammation, cell longevity, skin immune system protection, skin radiance and stem cell survey. Finally, a clinical trial performed on Caucasian women confirmed AI anti-wrinkle efficacy, which was superior to that of a market reference ingredient. In the future, complementary experiments enabling a better understanding of the aging-induced decline of epidermal stem cells would be of a great interest.