Damned if it works, damned if it doesn't
According to recent communication and action from the FDA, if a cosmetic active ingredient actually works it's a drug and should be banned. And if it doesn't work, well, it doesn't work and it misleads consumers, so it should be banned too.
Long story short, nothing that actually does something should be on the market and no-one except pharmaceuticals and doctors can make any claims, ESPECIALLY if the make scientifically established claims based on research and on clinical data. The more scientifically proven the claim, the more the FDA has a case that the product is a "drug".
According to this "Holly Inquisition" doctrine, there can be no cosmetic products that actually do something on the skin, such as creams with collagen boosting actives or skin lightening ones, as these are supposedly "medical interventions" and turn these products into "unlicensed drugs" and companies that educate their customers about the benefits of such natural, healthful actives face fines and prosecution.
Cosmetics that work must be drugs now...
So if you use a $20 vitamin C cream on your skin (vitamin C is very, very well researched for it's skin lightening and collagen stimulating action, and of course it is super-safe), according to the FDA you are using a dangerous unlicensed "drug", which has first to be approved as a medicine (after decade-long trials and a few hundred millions wasted on such futile trials). Only then it can be prescribed by a doctor and bought as a medicine from the pharmacy, for possibly something like $200.
Of course, no-one can patent vitamin C and no pharma will bother manufacturing it for this purpose, so thanks to the FDA there can exist no skin product that makes claims about the skin lightening / collagen boosting properties of vitamin C (or any other natural active that actually works) without falling fall foul of the FDA's interventionist, undemocratic, dictatorial rule. All that are allowed for claims are makeup, exfoliants and moisturisers. And who knows, maybe at some point the FDA will decide that moisturisation or exfoliation "intends to affect the structure or function of the human body", and those will be banned too...
Big Pharma dictatorship
The situation with the FDA in the US is ridiculous and bordering on the grotesque, and for the time being no US lawmaker seems to be willing to end the tyranny of this unelected organisation upon anything natural, healthful, wholesome or non-pharmaceutical.
This is not the medieval times, it is 2016 and science is institutionally banned from a major government agency in the most advanced economy in the world, in the name of protecting the public from itself. Sad and pathetic...
News: FDA Warns About Stimulating Collagen, Lightening and Other Claims