hyaluronic acid and your skin

Skin hydration, anti-ageing, wound healing, water retention, cellulite

Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronate or hyaluronan) is the most important moisturising molecule in the human body, an essential component of skin and connective tissue, and an invaluable anti-ageing and connective tissue restructuring active ingredient. Hyaluronic acid comes in various sizes (molecular weights), with the higher sizes forming a film on the skin and the smaller ones penetrating in the deeper dermal layers.

Low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid comprises small size hyaluronic acid molecules and can penetrate deeper than normal hyaluronate. In addition, LMW hyaluronan itself is also a penetration absorber for other active ingredients in body / face creams. 

 

Which molecular weights of hyaluronic acid penetrate the skin better?

This question has been answered by the 2016 study titled: Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. The results of the study are quite clear and quite enlightening: anything up to 300 kDa offers a food degree of penetration, with 50-300 kDa being ideal for anti-ageing and lower molecular weights (800-10k Da) being ideal for cellulite and water retention. On the other hand, anything above 1000 kDa stays on the surface of the epidermis, with the body's native 2000 kDa hyaluronan being totally unable to penetrate the epidermis.

"Our results show a difference of skin permeation of the three HA. Indeed, HA with low molecular weight (20-300 kDa) passes through the stratum corneum in contrast of the impermeability of high molecular weight HA (1000-1400 kDa)"

 

HYALURONIC ACID CREAM

For all these reasons, LMW hyaluronic acid is of great importance as an active ingredient in anti-cellulite, leg wellness, anti-ageing and under-eye creams. Hyaluronic acid creams are now popular for dry, aged skin and to fill wrinkles and fine lines [the Celluence® cellulite and leg wellness creams are the only creams in the world with 99% pure LMW hyaluronic acid - less than 10 kDa - plus 39x other natural anti-cellulite actives].